Human skin is directly exposed to environmental aggression, mainly appearing in the form of chemicals, air pollutants and UV radiation. These factors generate reactive species (free radicals and others) responsible for extensive skin cell damage and aging. Although Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) have been known and studied for years, Reactive Carbonyl Species (RCS), another important class of intermediates, have only recently been related to skin deterioration.
RCS are especially dangerous because they are a by-product of cellular metabolism, including lipid peroxidation, glycation, auto-oxidation of sugars, etc.
Among the damage caused by RCS, we find DNA damage, proteosome degradation, as well as cellular and extracellular protein alteration. This last effect has been linked to skin deterioration, and indeed skin collagen, the primary component of the extracellular matrix, is an important target for RCS. Young collagen fibers are tough, elastic, and in bulk appear white, but with age they undergo cross-linking, lose their elasticity and become yellow. Cross-linking is responsible for the hardening of collagen as well as for the deterioration of skin with age, and the molecules responsible for cross-linking are RCS.
RCS, especially dicarbonyl compounds, react with proteins to form a variety of adducts in a reaction known as the Maillard reaction. These adducts are collectively known as Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs) and are effective indicators of protein damage and are highly increased with age.
If we concentrate on HNE, one of the most abundant and toxic of these aldehydes, we see that HNE-protein adducts are detected in photodamaged and aged skin but not in young healthy skin. Keratinocytes detoxify endogenously-formed HNE by forming adducts with GSH (glutathione), the skin’s natural hydrophilic antioxidant. However, when submitted to UVB, keratinocytes are depleted of GSH, they can no longer detoxify from HNE and they die. So an external agent is needed to quench HNE and other RCS when keratinocytes receive UVB, that is, when the skin is exposed to the sunlight.
Ultraviolet radiation causes significant changes to the cells of the skin, including DNA damage. UVA radiation constitutes more of the 90% of the environmentally relevant solar UV radiation and plays an important role in skin aging. DNA damage contributes greatly to these age-associated skin changes and DNA lesions caused by UVA radiation trigger photo aging of human skin. Therefore, a product which can protect skin cells from UVA-induced DNA damage could prevent photoaging, improving the skin's appearance.
Lipotec has developed a formula based on recent research from the University of Milan, which is able to detoxify the skin from these noxious RCS and protect it from DNA damage induced by UVA radiation. The formula contains a cluster formed by two peptides: a vegetable protein hydrolysate (INCI: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein,Hydrolyzed Soy Protein) and a synthetic tripeptide named GHK (INCI: Tripeptide-1).The combination of the two peptides is ALDENINE® PBC. The tripeptide becomes entrapped within the tertiary structure of the vegetable protein, and therefore becomes stabilized.
Aldenine is a product that can protect skin cells from UVA induced DNA damage and also prevents photoaging, thus improving the skin’s appearance. The tripeptide acts as a molecular scavenger while the hydrolyzed vegetable protein boosts collagen production in skin cells. Studies have proven the use of Aldenine PBC can boost the production of Collegen III by almost 300% in 7 days, while not affecting Collagen I, already plentiful in the skin.
Cosmetic Properties and Applications
- GHK captures noxious RCS, which skin cells cannot detoxify by themselves.
- The plant protein hydrolysate selectively boosts synthesis of Collagen III.
- ALDENINE® PBC is particularly formulated for stabilization of the GHK tripeptide.
- Since keratinocytes cannot eliminate RCS when submitted to UVB, ALDENINE can protect cells from photodamage.
- ALDENINE® PBC protects skin cells from UVA-induced DNA damage, thus preventing photoaging.
Active Ingredient Content:
- 0.1% Tripeptide-1
- 6.25% Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (25% Protein Extract)
- 3.75% Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (15% Protein Extract)
Incorporation: Add at the end of the emulsion, at cool down, no higher than 113°F (45°C).
INCI: Water (and) Hydrolyzed Soy Protein (and) Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Tripeptide-1(and) Caprylyl Glycol
Do not directly apply onto your skin. This product should be added to a formulation at the recommended usage rate.
Shipping Information: HS Code 2905391000
Statements contained herein have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat and cure or prevent disease. Always consult with your professional skin care provider.
California Prop 65 Statement: The following statement is made in order to comply with the California Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986. This product is not known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm.
Appearance: Amber to brown translucent solution
Solubility: Water soluble
Raw Material Preserved With: Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol
Country of Origin: Spain
Long Term Storage: Cool, clean and dark place. If kept in these conditions shelf life is at least 18 months.