L-Ascorbic Acid, Ultrafine

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CAS No. 50-81-7

Vitamin C, 100% L-Ascorbic Acid, FCC, Ultrafine powder is a water soluble antioxidant. Vitamin C, a potent, naturally occurring antioxidant is an important constituent of skin.  It plays a pivotal role in the prevention of dry skin and wrinkles, collagen synthesis and skin regeneration.  Ascorbate is found in all layers of the skin, but is more concentrated in the epidermis than the dermis.  However, it is readily depleted by about two thirds in cutaneous tissue stores with exposure to UV light. Biochemically, the body relies on ascorbate in the collagen biosynthetic pathway. It functions as a cofactor for two enzymes, lysyl and prolyl hydroxylases.  These are dependent on iron and Vitamin C prevents iron oxidation and thus inactivation of these hydroxylases, thereby maintaining their activity.  

Vitamin C has been shown to be effective in increasing collagen deposits and also enhancing collagen lattice contractions, implying that exogenous Vitamin C application contributes to strengthening the collagen framework and maintaining a healthy dermis.  Topical application of Vitamin C has been shown to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Caused by mechanisms supporting collagen production, this leads to improving the appearance of the skin.  It has further been proven to reduce the severity of sunburns and age spots.

Cutaneous levels of Vitamin C cannot be achieved well by ingestion, hence topical application is essential for preventing oxidative damage resulting from pollution, smoke and sunlight.  Its use has been shown to increase generation of stratum corneum barrier lipids and stabilize lipid profiles, in particular glucosphingolipids and ceramides.  

The difficulty for the cosmetic formulator is that L-Ascorbic Acid is very unstable in aqueous solutions, as it starts to oxidize immediately, gradually producing color changes (orange/brown shift) and a reduction in activity as it converts to dehydroascorbic acid. For cosmetic use, it is best stabilized in an anhydrous lipid or silicone base, although some have reported increased stability with the use of Ferulic Acid as part of aqueous formulations. This product is an ultrafine powder, ready to use in anhydrous formulations without further grinding. 

Our L-Ascorbic Acid meets FCC specifications, but it is considered a cosmetic grade material once we repackage it.

This is a cosmetic raw material and is meant for external use only in cosmetic formulations.  As with all of our materials, it should not be taken internally.

Shelf Life:  The manufacturer's stated "best use" date is two years from date of manufacture, if the container is unopened and stored away from heat, light and air.  We repackage this product in foil bags with a zip seal and a dessicant and oxygen absorbing pack.  Please do not throw away these packs as they help protect your product! Close the bag quickly, expelling as much air as possible from the bag.  Over time, constant opening and closing of the bag will eventually deplete the ability of the dessicant pack to adsorb moisture and the oxygen absorbent to absorb oxygen and allow the l-ascorbic acid to adsorb the moisture in the air and, in the presence of oxygen, it will begin to oxidize.  This will be noticeable as it takes on a yellow color in solution. Please consider purchasing sizes suitable for use in a period of 3-4 months.  If you are using this daily, it is better to purchase 1oz packets of l-ascorbic acid rather than a 4 - 8 oz bag that will be opened frequently and take a long time to use up. 

INCI: Ascorbic Acid

California Prop 65 Statement: The following statement is made in order to comply with the California Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986. This product is not known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm.

Typical usage rate: 1-4%
Appearance: Ultrafine white crystalline powder
Mesh Size: 100% through sieve No. 100, min. 95% through sieve No. 200 (75 microns)
pH (5% solution): 2.2 - 2.5
Solubility: Freely soluble in water (approx. 30g/100ml), sparingly soluble in absolute ethanol (2g/100ml), insoluble in fats and lipids.
Country of Origin: United Kingdom

Try out these formulations using this ingredient:

C&E Intensive Serum

DIY C&E with Ferulic Acid

Double C Serum